I can’t emphasize that enough, because it WILL cause massive headaches if you don’t test it first for spring tension.įor anyone interested, the dimensions for a sear lever slave pin would be approximately 0.194″ in diameter by 0.210″ long. Make absolutely sure the lever is properly spring loaded when you’re done or else you’ll end up repeating that circus act until you get it right. The other 99% of the time you’ll want a dental pick to force the spring to line up and shove the bushing through. One leg on the lever, one on the sear housing If you’re exceedingly lucky it won’t shift and you can get the bushing back in with minimal fuss. Once it’s in as far as it’ll go and the bushing bumps into the housing, yank the bushing out and shove the lever down against the spring. What I do for this thing is use the hollow bushing pin as a slave pin temporarily just to keep the spring where it belongs while inserting the whole mess into the housing.
WALTHER P1 FIELD STRIP HOW TO
It’s nearly impossible to describe how to handle this bastard but before tackling it consult the images later on in the design and function rundown to see how the spring should align. Let’s work backwards from the last step of the previous section, which means we start with the nightmare component: the sear lever and its incredibly irritating spring. It’s the most frustrating part of reassembly, fair warning. Step 5: Remove the sear lever’s hollow bushing pin, and be aware there’s a spring in there too. Step 1: Drive out the sear housing assembly roll pin. The P99 sear assembly isn’t difficult to disassemble, but putting it back together can be incredibly frustrating even using the tricks I’ve developed working with this TP-9. As always when fooling with light springs, test thoroughly to make sure you don’t get light strikes. The P99/TP-9 striker spring is quite heavy by default, so using a Glock spring improves the DA trigger considerably. Notes: Glock springs work in the P99, but I wouldn’t use lighter than the 5.5 standard Glock spring. Reassembly: Reverse the above steps, the slide is the easy part! To get the striker sleeve to compress into the slide you may need to fiddle with the decocker button a bit. You can find the head of the plunger on the underside of the slide, just aft of the striker blocking safety plunger. The extractor is retained by a spring loaded plunger, and the loaded chamber indicator is held in by a cross pin. Field strip the pistol by decocking the gun and pressing down on the latch. The extractor is pinned in place and helps retain the striker blocking safety plunger, but there’s very little reason to remove either of those.ġ. I’m not going to go into super detail for the slide because frankly it’s very straightforward. CAREFULLY drive that pin out top to bottom and hope for the best.Wedge something under the locking block/takedown latch to ensure there’s a gap for the pin to go (otherwise it hits the frame).Locate the tiny 1/16″ roll pin in the RIGHT side of the takedown latch.Gently lever the locking block and takedown latch as far up as possible, it WON’T come out yet.Remove the sear housing according to this guide.Remove the trigger and locking block pins (solid and roll pins respectively).I’m not covering those components in this guide, but if for some reason you absolutely need to remove any of those here’s what I’d would suggest: